Do you ever pine away for the past? Wax sentimental to have it the way it used to be? Well.....you can get there, just get in you car or boat and drive there (here)!
We are in Belhaven, NC.
If you notice a paucity of phone calls, or that email I promised you never arrived, that would be because it (they) are stuck here in 1975. Belhaven now has cell phone service. They got it in 2009 when US Cellular finally came to town and monopoloized the market. Now people who buy Various roaming plans are doing battle with their cell companies over using the US Cellular tower. Elise and I went to a 1980 grocery store yesterday. No, we didn't get in on the hog knuckle sale. It did make us a little nervous to drive the golf cart on a numbered US highway on the way to the store, but the mayor told the town cop to let people do it in a special arrangement with the marina, "so you'll be all right."
I saw blatant racism in a car parts store when the young white man wanted to help me ahead of the black guy who had been standing there when I entered the store. When I pointed out that the other fellow was first, he helped the black guy, but asked me, "Where are you from?" in a "get with the program" sort of inflection to his voice. The black man was stone silent and didn't make eye contact with either of us. I so desperately wanted to answer, "2011."
I spoke to Someone at the dock about the job as Pamlico County Director of Public Health. She told me that she believed I was capable of the job and could do good work there, but that I wouldn't be permitted to and that, as an outsider, I wouldn't ever be trusted and wouldn't be accepted until I saved someone important, "and that might be a while because people in the network don't go to the health department......for ANYTHING." I asked what the network is, and she smiled and replied, counted off slowly on her fingers the three components, "Good, Old, Boy." OMG.
The mosquitoes are the worst I've ever experienced in an inhabited place in the daytime. They are as bad as Florida at sundown in the rainy season in mid-afternoon. No sentinel chickens needed here, the people themselves can have their sera tested! But they have beautiful churches and a nice library. And the Election Day barbecue outside the polling station sponsored by the mayor smelled delicious as was rode by in the golf cart. "The mayor wants you to fix yourself a plate when you come out from voting," I thought I heard someone say.
Notice there will be no pictures with this blog entry. We couldn't figure out how to get Kodachrome to upload.
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
Thursday, October 27, 2011
Linda Petrat

While we are in Annapolis we've met several other cruisers. One is Linda Petrat.
Linda is nearly Social Security age and a lifelong mariner. As a child, she sailed with her parents and 6 younger siblings on a 70 foot wooden Alden schooner. The Alden had an 8'9" draft and plied the East coast of the US and the Bahamas (!). She has worked as a finish carpenter and has raised 2 daughters.
After divorcing some years back, she began sailing her Pearson Ensign 22. When the transport company dawdled this autumn, she left on her own to sail the boat from New Hampshire to Annapolis on the way to her new home in Sarasota, Florida. She regularly gets seawater baths and has virtually no protection from the elements. This boat is smaller than the boat Washington crossed the Delaware in, and has no fixed instruments, no heat, a 4hp outboard engine, a single bunk with a leak over it, effectively no tankage, a bottle of rum strapped in for emergency fortification, a cuddy cabin so small that Linda can't fully sit up in it, and one INTREPID captain with the gritty resolve to beat winter down the coast. After inviting her to dinner aboard our boat and hearing her story, we won't bet against her success. Linda is a very nice person and an inspiration to all of us making the trip in more substantial circumstances. As I type this Captain Petrat is braving 50F rain at the tiller with no self-steering as she pushes down the bay. We'll report back on our blog what becomes of her.Pictures to follow when we have a real computer to send with.
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Maryland holds on to us
Maryland has a way of hanging on to us. There is a perpetual social calendar of family events, then there is the weather, now a series of mechanical glitches. The latest caused us to be towed into Annapolis where our mechanic, Nick Vernon, is back on our boat for the third time to straighten us out (we hope). Our alternator is not working properly and we gave it to him yesterday to get it tested at an alternator shop. Also, he is replacing the drive shaft coupling bolts that sheared off in the first 4 hours of use. And, now, he is going to realign the engine and raise the engine on its mounts on Thursday. We hope for a Friday 10/28 departure for points south......fingers crossed as it is getting cold.
But, just when we are feeling sorry for ourselves, we meet inspiration at the Chick & Ruth weekly cruiser breakfast in Annapolis. We met a woman today who is single-handing a 22 foot sailboat that she can't even fully sit-up in from New Hampshire to "South." She has no heat and she gets a seawater bath every day she sails. She's made it to Annapolis and is an INTREPID SOUL. Her smart phone is not working and she is bundled up in foul weather gear most of the time. Makes us feel like wimps for complaining about ANY relative hardship we've encountered. After meeting her and hearing her story, all we wanted to do is help her in any way we could. Autumn has had a beauty to it, even if summer and autumn weather has caused muted colors and mostly just green or brown leaves to fall off the trees this year. Flocks of geese are honking overhead and we know what season comes next. Time to get!
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
The RIght Tool for the Job
In a joint iinitiative, NOAA and the EPA promote a voluntary incentive based program known as the Clean Marina Program. After developing environmentally sound programs for fuel and waste management, marinas may apply to become recognized as environmental stewards. Once recognized, they are more likely to avoid EPA fines, sustain improved water quality and habitat for wildlife and customers, plus,they gain rights to the official clean marina logo and complimentary marketing under the Clean Marina byline. It appears the federally legislated Clean Water Act of 1972 and revision of 1978 needed an updated approach which requires less administration and more active engagement by those in strategic locations to source pollution.
With all this green attention, it is really surprising to see what still washes up. Honestly, it's such a sin; the mess actually stirs recollections of the anti-pollution PSA of the 1970's featuring the crying American Indian.
How did I miss this invention? It's the closest thing to a street sweeper you'll find on the water. This device has big arms in front that essentially sweep the debris off the water surface, then collects and stores it. I'm presuming there is an environmentally sound endpoint for all that rubbish too.
Not perfect, but there was much less visible pollution in the post-sweep vs the pre-sweep view to our stern.
With all this green attention, it is really surprising to see what still washes up. Honestly, it's such a sin; the mess actually stirs recollections of the anti-pollution PSA of the 1970's featuring the crying American Indian.
Not perfect, but there was much less visible pollution in the post-sweep vs the pre-sweep view to our stern.
BTW, Seven Seas Cruising Association, at SSCA.org, for the last 60 years has embodied he tradition of leaving a clean wake long before it was fashionable. Actively respecting others and the shared environment is a most cherished attribute of the organization which warmly welcomes active cruisers and armchair sailors alike.The annual dues are an excellent value (check out the site), but the members are priceless.
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
A Successful Labor Day
Any hard working galley wench will recognize this beauty...
This raw water foot pump at the galley sink is the latest improvement for SeaSpan.
While I would never consider using this in the harbor here in Balto, I am sure in clear Caribbean waters, it will almost make doing dishes fun (right.)
We "labored" over the installation, but it is now 100% functional.
It is time tested as well, which is to say, we picked it up at a chandlery consigment shop. Those of us who have classic plastic, read old fiberglass boats, visit such haunts when in new ports for spare parts and miscellany. During our stop in Oriental NC, our new friend Doug gave us a lift to the chandlery, where a treasure hunt yielded the pump, port and starboard running lights, and a hard to find downwind pole. All in great condition at competitive pricing. Doug was even kind enough to return us, the 13 foot pole and other finds back to our dock in his truck. Aren't sailors wonderful?
This raw water foot pump at the galley sink is the latest improvement for SeaSpan.
While I would never consider using this in the harbor here in Balto, I am sure in clear Caribbean waters, it will almost make doing dishes fun (right.)
We "labored" over the installation, but it is now 100% functional.
It is time tested as well, which is to say, we picked it up at a chandlery consigment shop. Those of us who have classic plastic, read old fiberglass boats, visit such haunts when in new ports for spare parts and miscellany. During our stop in Oriental NC, our new friend Doug gave us a lift to the chandlery, where a treasure hunt yielded the pump, port and starboard running lights, and a hard to find downwind pole. All in great condition at competitive pricing. Doug was even kind enough to return us, the 13 foot pole and other finds back to our dock in his truck. Aren't sailors wonderful?
Monday, September 5, 2011
Waning Summer
The days are gradually getting shorter. The skies more cloudy, and the temperatures are cooling. Summer has been fun, but it is waning in the mid-Atlantic states. Time for us to think about what's next.

What's next is a lot of boat work in order to be ready to move on! The next few entries in our blog are likely to show us head-down in a compartment or bilge space, a troubled or worried look on our faces. Let us tell you, it has been a LONG LONG time since Elise and Jeff have worried about a coming winter. It has become, already, the start of a race against time! We won't panic until the geese start flying in vees overhead; when does that happen??
Alas, it is still summer, and we are going to hang on to it as long as we can. This weekend we enjoyed a sunset at the lake in Columbia
Wilde Lake, Columbia
Jeff made a trip with his sister-in-law, niece, and nephew to Hersheypark to celebrate nephew Elliot's 16th B-day in style with a posse of Elliot's friends. I'd post a pic of Elliot and the boys, but we never saw them all day at the park!
Thursday, September 1, 2011
CHICAGO
One watches the people in Chicago on TV in the winter time; in a penguin huddle waiting for the "L," or some poor sap harpooned on the sidewalk by falling ice from above, pedestrians in danger of being blown into traffic by the whipping snowstorm. Why do they live there by the millions? The answer is summer!
Chicago seems to be a GIGANTIC small town. Festivals, activities, school and the action draw the young to live there in great hordes. Public transit is fantastic, arts and culture are world class, and it is quite scenic. OK, we can see the vision now. We'll visit in summer, may even get a place and stay for summer some time.
Monday, August 29, 2011
To Bermuda AND BACK in 5 days!!!
The folks were married on August 12, 1961, so this month they've been married for 50 years. We cruised to Bermuda together on an ocean liner and threw a big party.
None of the 2300 passengers on that enormous ship were more grateful than the two of us to be able to turn off the lights, tuck into bed, and sleep for 8 hours uninterrupted as the ship made 160 miles good for Bermuda through the night! A 500 mile day at sea; can you imagine??!!?? "Rough seas" made some feel ill as we crossed the Gulf Stream; Elise and I shared knowing smiles in public and giggles in private at the notion that we were experiencing rough seas. Let's summize there were no lee cloths, no wetted table cloths, no spilled dinner wine, and no crawling on the cabin sole necessary. We can now attest that 1000 foot long ships steaming at 22 kts shoulder 7 foot seas with aplomb.
New York Roots
New York is not just the Big Apple. There is another part; upstate, agrarian, and bucolic. That's the part Norman, my (Jeff's) dad, hails from. A hidden gem nestled in the very southwest corner where the natives like to say they have 4 seasons -- June, July, August, and winter!
Farmland all over the country is reverting to forest and the family dairy farm is mostly a museum exhibit. But also, the "plain people" (Amish and others) continue family farming and are buying up farmland in sizeable numbers.
Amish family at the village crossroads
Farmland all over the country is reverting to forest and the family dairy farm is mostly a museum exhibit. But also, the "plain people" (Amish and others) continue family farming and are buying up farmland in sizeable numbers.
Our family is still there, as is the land. From my cousin Randy and Aunt Audrey's yard, you can see the family farm; the barn still stands across the road. The house where my grandparents lived and died is within sight on the crest of the next hill. On the knoll beyond that house is the house where my grandfather was born. And over the next crest is the homestead of great great grandparents. Returning there, to the Town of Busti, gives me a since of belonging, connection with our past. And on that rare summer day, when the breeze blows clear from Canada across the lake, there is no better place to be.
Norman and Randy run the tractor
Amish family at the village crossroads
Sunday, August 28, 2011
So Long Irene
Earthquakes, Hurricanes...all in the same week? Yikes.
What are we doing here??
Thanks for the texts, calls and emails of concern. All seems essentially well at slip P58. Great. Now we can move on to "the list." Anyone have experience replacing a mast boot?
Sorry for the quality of the video clip, it was still pretty breezy creating lots of motion on our floating dock Saturday morning.
I will never complain again about slogging to weather again; this poor guy had a tough day too.
What are we doing here??
Thanks for the texts, calls and emails of concern. All seems essentially well at slip P58. Great. Now we can move on to "the list." Anyone have experience replacing a mast boot?
Sorry for the quality of the video clip, it was still pretty breezy creating lots of motion on our floating dock Saturday morning.
I will never complain again about slogging to weather again; this poor guy had a tough day too.
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